philly

I'd never been to Philadelphia before this year, so I was pretty excited to head there in June for a conference, although I knew I wouldn't have a lot of time to sight-see. When I got off the plane and ended up at the hotel in Center City, Philly, I headed straight back out to see as much as I could before the conference started the next day. One of my favorite things is exploring a new city, so after a long day of travel, I felt pretty great to be wandering down a random street in the general direction of our nation's history. For about 20 minutes, I walked by little shops and alleys, wishing I had not changed into jeans (apparently Southern California is the only place where you need jeans and a jacket on a late June evening).

And then...I looked up...and there was the liberty bell on one side and Independence Hall on the other.
It was pretty thrilling. Of course, nothing was open. But I still wandered around those sites and many others in the area for the next hour or more.

I really, really wanted to see Elfreth's Alley too, mostly because my friend, Bekah, had been there the week before (what are the chances?). She actually keeps up on posting photos online, so I had already seen her pics, and knew I would want to get there. After making it there just at dusk, I got dinner at a very fun martini bar (where I was the only person eating alone, taking pictures of my drink).

The conference started the next day, and there was less time for sight-seeing, but we still visited the American Chemical Society and the Union League of Philadelphia, where I got to read a first-hand written account of Abraham Lincoln's assassination. For lunch one day, some friends and I walked to the Reading Terminal Market.
And on the last day, I joined a tour to the Barnes Foundation, which was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The Barnes is an art gallery just on the outskirts of Philadelphia. The collection's focus is on Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and early Modern paintings (all favorites of mine). But probably the most fascinating thing is how the paintings are displayed - not by time period or style, but all integrated in a visually colorful, sometimes overly symmetrical, almost cluttered style, according to the vision of founder Albert Barnes. The Foundation was established as an educational institution, and the intimate layout of the gallery space was meant to facilitate the courses in visual perception. It was a very unique gallery experience. The museum is soon moving into central Philadelphia, so I was very grateful to have the opportunity (just in time!) to see it in its original, unusual setting. There is also an arboretum with a "teaching collection" of trees - also very interesting.

Photo from:
http://www.barnesfoundation.org

One of the most memorable Philly experiences was having dinner at Chifa, a restaurant featuring a blend of Peruvian and Cantonese cuisines led by Chef Jose Garces (one of the iron chefs). I don't even know what to say about it. The food was incredibly delicious. One of the best meals I have ever had.

Photo from:
http://www.mainlinemag.com/CMS/uncategorized/hail-to-the-chifa

The real reason (of course) for going to Philadelphia was for the Rare Book & Manuscript Section conference, and I can honestly say that as much as I loved experiencing a new city, the conference was the best part of the trip. Seeing old friends and colleagues, meeting a lot of new people, and getting so many new ideas and much sound advice was really, really wonderful.
Saddest thing about the trip to Philly: no chance to get a philly cheese steak. :( Now I must go back.